London Collections: Men Autumn/Winter 2016 is over and after a busy few days, here are my thoughts on the season ahead and a look at some of my highlights from the shows.
This season is about choice and juxtapositions – Blending the lines of work and play. Many of the designers presented collections that were heavily influenced by two era’s the 80s – oversized double breasted jackets and high waisted trousers make quite a few appearances, and 90s, delivering clashing prints and a prominence of grunge.
TREND ALERT: BIG BETS TO INVEST IN FOR AW16!
Double breasted jackets
Neon knitwear and accessories
Strong earthy tones have been muted to ease wear ability including camel, brown and green with a hint of navy and grey. De-constructed double-breasted jackets in wool cashmere are worn with utility vests in tweed, whilst heavy cotton in a robust twill delivers Thom Sweeney’s first tailored denim trouser. The presentation showcased an eye for immaculate detail and gave us a lesson in how to wear tailoring for both formal and relaxed occasions. It’s safe to say, the Double Breasted jacket is a key investment piece for AW16.
Liam Gallagher’s fashion house Pretty Green hosted a rock n’ roll event, celebrating the launch of the label’s exclusive Jimmy Hendrix collaboration. In addition to a preview selection of Black Label and Green Label SS16 collections. The AW16 Hendrix range is not only a tribute to legendary Jimi’s style but a modern interpretation of the way he liked to dress. Unique prints have been developed from original garments worn by Hendrix himself. The words ‘are you experienced’ form a new signature paisley as a reference to the legendary debut studio album. A bold look when worn together but given the trends of clashing prints for AW16, the adventurous dressers are in for a treat! For those who are a little more conservative in their style choices
Coach reimagined the East Coast of Blue-collar masculine style. A nostalgic glance towards rebellion, inviduality and the spirit of optimism. With a nod to the ’90s New York Hip-Hop music scene, the collection was driven by utility – blown up to their ultimate expression in oversized proportions whilst still remaining true to the Coach Menswear handwriting.
Sarah Burton delivered a collection that was reminiscent of Lee’s early work – incredibly detailed, tailored garments with a tough punk edge to pack a punch. I adore how Burton has stayed true to Lee’s aesthetic and heavily features those trademark McQueen talismans – Butterflies, Moths and Flowers.
Burberry probably surprised me the most with this show – In terms of styling it was inherently Burberry through and through with it’s muted colour palette and references to its British heritage. Traditional tailoring combined with the world of sportswear, creating a totally new aesthetic for Bailey’s show. The focus was on the more casual pieces to wear – Sneakers, Zip-up tracksuit tops and bomber jackets and of course the occasional house check scarf.
Patrick Grant delivered another well curated collection, building on the brands fame for traditional fabrics and vintage cuts with an elegant edge. The trousers were high waisted and generously cut whilst the chunky knits were layered with immaculate outerwear. There’s definitely a few pieces on my wishlist already!
BAARTMANS AND SIEGEL
Drawing inspiration from the 1970’s and Studio 54, Baartmans and Siegel’s Autumn/Winter collection offered a melting pot of classic pinstripe suits and camel coats with neon yellow sheepskin coats and cheeky pops of leopard print.
There was something romantically chaotic about the 70s and 90s meeting to produce Topman Designs AW16 offering. Bleached denim, velvet tracksuits and floral shirts and clashing prints in an array of colours are sure to filter their way into stores and delight fashion fans looking to turn heads.