London Fashion Week for Men or, London Collections Men as it is formally called took place this weekend and boy, were we treated to some outstanding collections from great talents.
It’s safe to say that we are going to be spoilt for choice when Autumn/Winter 2017 rolls around. A quick rundown for you of the 5 key trends that we’ll be seeing everywhere:
- 80’s casual wear is going to be huge. Shell jackets and sweatpants in neon brights are a must-have.
- Oversized knitwear and outerwear. The bigger the better when it comes to winter’s favourite garments.
- Cropped jackets and knitwear are also in, if the oversized trend isn’t your thing.
- Soft tailoring is romantic; wide legged trousers are a must. Say goodbye to those skinny-fit suits!
- Roll-necks aren’t going anywhere. Consistently shown throughout the weekend, this wardrobe classic is your safest buy.
Below are some of my favourite designers and looks that were shown at LCM:
The latest collection from Topman Design is another clash of the era’s. Heavily influenced by the oversized tailoring of the 80’s we saw longer length blazers teamed with ballon-style trousers, whilst mohair jumpers are embellished with eyelets and crosses for an all-out 90s punk look.
In his designs, Xander Zhou likes to explore the boundaries between form and function, as well as the unique qualities of the different fabrics he uses. He reconstructs classical forms by providing them with new contexts, occasionally blurring gender stereotypes in the process. The outerwear shown was incredible with oversized double breasted suede trench coats and cropped shearling military jackets. Proportions were stretched with cropped v-neck jumpers and oversized shirts.
“It’s Morphin’ time!” is a phrase that will be familiar amongst those of us raised on the phenomenal Power Rangers. Bobby Abley’s latest collection heavily draws inspiration from the cult TV show with models carrying the iconic helmets under arm, whilst slogan tops are branded with ‘POWER UP’, dinosaurs and lightning bolts. Adding a touch of youth and fun into menswear, the trend for 90’s style casual wear is prominent in Abley’s collection; tracksuits, hoodies and caps reign supreme.
Inspired by photographs of scarecrows, Patrick Grant’s collection is a meticulous take on how farmers might dress their scarecrows! Soft tailoring with relaxed proportions and impeccable Savile Row tailoring is the handwriting of E. Tautz. Models showcased a neutral colour palette highlighted with soft denim, prince of wales check and stripes.
To sum it up perfectly, a quote directly from Grant himself “a collection full of formally sourced clothing created to be worn informally.”
Delivering one of the most interesting presentations “It is winter, so your clothes have to work,” said Phoebe English as models went about their business, well, chores mainly – hoovering, ironing and sweeping. Action-ready, the collection is full of sturdy and hard-wearing pieces; waxed cotton jackets, velvet knitwear and leather coats. There’s an urban simplicity to the design.
I could have quite easily shown every single look from the Oliver Spencer show as I found every one stunning in their own right. Known for their luxury wardrobe staples, AW17 is an extension of Oliver Spencer’s signature masculine style. Chic, effortless and timeless each look was carefully considered and I’ve got my eyes on quite a few pieces when they make their way into store…
Miller presented a haunting collection that was politically charged. Utilitarian coats swayed down the catwalk as models showcased rucksacks that appeared to be inspired by military parachutes and bomb vests. There was a real gothic romanticism to the collection which reminded me of Alexander McQueen. Some beautifully designed pieces whether worn together or separate.
Andersen sent out a collection that seemed to be inspired heavily by the 90’s Miami gangster look made famous by Hollywood. Textures were decadent; velvet, gold lace and fur swayed down the runway. An incredibly strong collection – whilst not to everyone’s taste I really appreciated the consistency throughout, and I’m a huge fan of Versace style glamour!
Creative director Joe Casely-Hayford, and son Charlie, designed this collection in celebration of the former’s three decades in the business. The juxtaposition of longer-lengths with cropped knitwear with beautiful tailoring is a beautiful collaboration between father and son. Clashing prints were prominent, along with textured fabrics. Carefully considered looks to last a lifetime. This collection has my name written ALL over it.
King of oversized garments, J.W. Anderson did not disappoint with his AW17 collection. As extreme length knitwear made its way down the runway I couldn’t help but be reminded of being little and being told “You’ll grow into it!” as I tried on my new school uniform jumper for that year. References were drawn from stained glass windows and 1970’s macrame.
AGI & SAM
Reminiscent of techniques used at Chanel in their iconic tweeds, dynamic duo Agi & Sam presented a collection that was textually compelling and followed the growing trend for super-sized garments. Boucle wool overcoats were teamed with military boots and caps for a charming off-duty look. Other standouts were the tonal cut-and-sew leather jacket and pants. Definitely some extraordinary stand-out pieces, particular in the hero item of winter; the coat.
Dalton’s collection for AW17 was breath a ray of sunshine on a cold wet January day compared to the mostly safe, muted colour palettes seen from other designers. Crisp white garments dazzled alongside teddy bear fur sweaters and soft chambray denim. She teamed up with artist and ceramicist John Booth who hand painted a couple of key items to inject a bit of colourful fun to the collection.
Joseph have always been a firm favourite of mine, designing beautiful hard-working wardrobe staples that are special. This season we see carefully considered clash; Oxford shirts teamed with Tweed overcoats and sweatpants. Fair Isle sweaters with checked trousers – there is a disciplined approach to each look with a gentle nod to the 70’s and current day trend for track pants. Is it just me, or is there a subtle Gucci vibe coming through on some of the looks?
Sequins, ruffles and skin – oh my! Renowned for their penchant for hunky male models the team at Sibling sent their latest collection down the runway with unbuttoned cardigans and harnesses taking centre stage – eyes on the FASHION please people! I love the drama of this collection; bright ruffles teamed with cropped trousers give a circus feel whilst the embellishment of sequins with tiger print give an 80’s disco vibe. Probably not your every day go-to look, but certainly some head turning pieces for a night on the town!
YOU MUST CREATE
YMC delivered a collection that reminded me of 1920’s Parisian explorers. Aviator jackets, khaki two-pieces and mohair jumpers were accessorised with berets for a polished look. I already have my eye on the stripe scarf and jumper combination!
So, those were my favourite looks of the season. What were yours? Any particular trends that you have your eye on? Leave a comment and follow me on Twitter & Instagram and subscribe to my YouTube channel.